Trastevere

Rione Trastevere (Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere)

Ivy-draped lanes for dinner and an evening wander

Hours

The neighbourhood is always open; places fill up after 7pm

Tickets

Free

Address

Use Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere as your anchor; it is 5 minutes from Campo de' Fiori over Ponte Sisto

Cross one river and the buildings turn orange and ochre, ivy hangs over cobbled lanes and washing is strung between windows. At dusk tables spill into every alley and buskers set up by the fountain in the square. In the middle of the neighbourhood the church of Santa Maria in Trastevere glitters with gold mosaics, and a 15–20-minute climb takes you to the Gianicolo terrace for sunset over the rooftops.