Takayama

高山陣屋

Latticed old streets, morning markets, Hida beef sushi

Hours

Takayama Jinya Apr–Oct 8:45am–5pm (last entry 4:30pm), Nov–Mar 8:45am–4:30pm (last entry 4pm); markets mornings only

Tickets

Streets free; Takayama Jinya ¥500

Address

1-5 Hachiken-machi, Takayama (Takayama Jinya); the Sanmachi old streets are a 10-minute walk

The heart of town is Sanmachi Suji, where Edo-era merchant houses press dark wooden lattices shoulder to shoulder. Houses with a ball of cedar hanging from the eaves are sake breweries, with tasters crowding the doorways, and street stands sell Hida beef sushi served on a rice cracker. In the mornings, markets set up along the Miyagawa River and in front of the Jinya selling vegetables, pickles and crafts. Takayama Jinya itself is a complete Edo-period government office, and wandering its tatami rooms is quietly absorbing.