Santorini travel info

An hour before sunset, people are already three deep along the wall of the old castle in Oia, phones raised. White houses cling to the slope as if about to tip into the sea, blue-domed churches sit among them, and below is a drop of almost 300 metres. Santorini is the crescent-shaped rim left behind when a volcano blew apart about 3,600 years ago and its middle collapsed into the sea. That flooded hollow is the caldera, and the villages of Fira, Firostefani, Imerovigli and Oia run along the top of its cliffs. When the sun touches the water, someone starts clapping and everyone joins in.

Cross to the other side of the island and the mood changes. The east and south slope gently down to the long black-sand beaches of Kamari and Perissa, and in the middle the vines are coiled into low baskets on the ground. Assyrtiko white wine, cherry-tomato fritters and the yellow purée called fava all come out of this volcanic soil. Beaches or wineries by day, a cliff-top village at dusk: do it in that order and the day fills itself.

Most visitors fly via Athens, Istanbul or another hub to the island airport (JTR), or take a ferry from Piraeus, the port of Athens. Getting around means KTEL buses that all radiate from Fira, a few dozen taxis, or a rental car or ATV. In February 2025 thousands of earthquakes over several weeks sent more than half the residents off the island for a while, but the state of emergency was lifted in early March and the cruise season opened at the end of that month. Most hotels and restaurants open around Greek Easter in April and close at the end of October, so if you come between November and March, expect peace and quiet but far fewer places open.

Santorini (Thira) International Airport (JTR)

Athinios Port (ferries) (PORT)

Fira Old Port (cruise tenders & cable car) (CRUISE)