Rome itineraries

Colosseum to Trastevere

One straight line through the Rome everyone pictures: the Colosseum's stone tiers at nine, a Trastevere trattoria table by dark. It's a lot of walking, so the shoes matter more than the plan.

West Bank from Trastevere

Base yourself in Trastevere on the west bank and work the Vatican, Castel Sant'Angelo, the Aventine and Testaccio. Leave the Colosseum side to the one-day route; this one is about painted ceilings and neighbourhood tables.

Deeper Rome from Monti

Two nights in the Monti lanes behind the Colosseum. The Colosseum's underground, a church three layers deep, Bernini at the Borghese, a bike ride on the Appian Way: Rome one level down. The Vatican sits in the two-day route; swap it into day three if you must.

Festivals & seasons

Souvenirs