Nha Trang travel info

Six in the morning on the Tran Phu promenade. When the sun climbs out from behind Hon Tre island the bay flashes gold, and the sand is already full of men playing badminton and grandmothers doing their exercises in neat rows. The beach curves for more than six kilometres, with a row of islands sitting offshore like a folding screen, so every photo comes with sea and islands in the back.

As the sun climbs, locals retreat to the shade and the parasols take over. Lunch is a clear bowl of bun cha ca with fish cake and jellyfish; around dusk it's banh can, little rice cakes baked one by one in clay moulds and doused in fish sauce. Dinner is up north near Hon Chong, picking a lobster out of a tank. Shop signs carry Russian and Korean alongside the Vietnamese.

The airport sits more than 30 km south at Cam Ranh, so stays split two ways: the city beach, where you can walk everywhere, or a resort on Bai Dai near the airport, where you don't move at all. October and November bring heavy rain and rough seas that often cancel island trips, so if the sea is the point, go between January and August.

Cam Ranh International Airport (CXR)