Maldives travel info

The runway ends at the sea. Walk out of arrivals and there's a row of desks with resort names on them; someone tags your bags and from then on you just get carried along. Nearby resorts are 20 to 40 minutes by speedboat, the far atolls a seaplane ride away. Out the window the coral rings slide past one after another and the water turns from navy to mint. You touch down not on tarmac but next to a floating jetty in front of your island.

There are two ways to do the Maldives. On a resort island, one hotel has the whole island to itself: drinks and bikinis are fine, and the resort controls your meals and your transport. On an inhabited 'local island' such as Maafushi you stay in a guesthouse for a fraction of the price, but there's no alcohol on the island and swimwear is for the designated 'bikini beach' only. The capital, Malé, and the new town of Hulhumalé sit next to the airport, linked by a bridge and buses, and are handy for a night when you land late.

Most itineraries change planes once, in Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Colombo, Dubai, Doha or similar. Seaplanes only fly in daylight, so if you land in the late afternoon your first night is near Malé. December to April, the northeast monsoon, is dry and clear; May to November, the southwest monsoon, brings showers and wind but lower prices.

Velana International Airport (Hulhulé Island) (MLE)