Ha Long Bay travel info

Six in the morning on the upper deck. The boat has been anchored all night, and one by one the grey limestone islands around it come out of the half-light. The water is as flat as a lake, and downstairs a crew member is waving people up for tai chi. The ones who spent last night hanging over the rail squid fishing are still asleep. With more than 1,600 islands scattered across the bay, every direction looks like an ink painting, and this is the scene people drive two and a half hours from Hanoi to see.

The town itself is split in two by Bai Chay Bridge. Bai Chay, to the west, is the tourist side: hotels, the cruise port, a Ferris wheel and a cable car. Hon Gai, to the east, is where people live, with the market, government offices and neighbourhood noodle shops. Further west, Tuan Chau island has the port many overnight cruises leave from. Plenty of people do it as a day trip from Hanoi, but to see the bay at dawn and dusk you need to sleep on a boat or spend a night in town.

The food comes from the sea. Cha muc, hand-pounded squid cake fried golden, is what everyone takes home, and for breakfast it's sliced over steamed rice rolls (banh cuon). Watch the weather: June to September is wet, and when a typhoon is on the way the port authority keeps every boat tied up. October and November, with clear skies and calm water, are the best months.

Hanoi Noi Bai International Airport (HAN)

Hai Phong Cat Bi International Airport (HPH)

Van Don International Airport (VDO)