Da Nang travel info

Half past five in the morning on My Khe beach. The sun hasn't cleared the Son Tra peninsula yet, but a group of women from the neighbourhood are already waist-deep in the sea, deep in conversation. On the sand, old men do their group exercises, and a few round basket boats come in with the night's nets. By midday the beach belongs to resort parasols; at dawn it still belongs to the locals.

In the evening, cross to the Han River. The Dragon Bridge glows gold over the water, and at 9pm on weekend nights the dragon's head actually breathes fire and sprays water. Under the bridge, seafood stalls set out plastic stools along the riverbank, and hundreds of scooters stream past with no traffic lights to speak of. To cross the road, keep walking at the same slow pace and let the bikes flow around you.

Most Da Nang trips come in three parts: lazing at a beachfront hotel, eating mi quang and banh xeo in town, and one day forty minutes south among the lanterns of Hoi An. The airport is right on the edge of town, and Grab gets you anywhere for a few dollars. Just leave slack in your beach days from late September to December, when the rain and typhoons arrive.

Da Nang International Airport (DAD)