Bangkok travel info

Catch a Chao Phraya Express boat around five in the afternoon and Bangkok lays itself out for you. On one bank, the white spires of Wat Arun go pink in the low sun; on the other, the roof tips of the Grand Palace flash gold. A longtail boat roars across your bow while the conductor at the stern blows a whistle to signal the captain.

Step ashore and the volume jumps. Woks clang in every soi, holy basil hits a hot pan, skewers smoke over charcoal. Motorbike-taxi riders in orange vests squat on the corner, the BTS Skytrain rumbles overhead, and the malls run their air-con like a meat locker. It's 33°C outside and 20°C inside, and you'll spend half the day crossing that line.

Land at the airport and you can be on a plastic stool that same evening, eating pad kra pao with a fried egg on top. It's a city where the Grab ride can cost more than dinner, where you do temples at dawn and night markets at 10pm.

Suvarnabhumi Airport (BKK)

Don Mueang International Airport (DMK)