Bali travel info

Sunset on Seminyak beach. Surfers walk out of the water with boards under their arms while beanbags get laid out in rows on the sand. One block back, a shopkeeper sets a little palm-leaf tray on her doorstep (a canang sari) and lights a stick of incense: a few petals, a pinch of rice, sometimes a sweet. These offerings go down on the pavement several times a day, so watch where you step.

In Bali, where you sleep is half the trip. Kuta and Seminyak, just north of the airport, are shopping and beach bars; Canggu, further up the coast, is surfers and brunch cafés; Ubud, in the middle of the island, is rice terraces, temples and yoga; Nusa Dua, Jimbaran and Uluwatu at the southern tip are resorts and sea below the cliffs. It all looks close on the map, but the roads are narrow and always jammed, so Ubud to the south takes one to two hours. Most people split their stay between two areas.

Before you land you need three things: the visa (for most visitors the e-VOA), the All Indonesia arrival card and the Bali tourist levy. Do all three online, save the QR codes on your phone, and the airport goes a lot faster. April to October is dry and bright; December to March brings a downpour most afternoons.

I Gusti Ngurah Rai International Airport (Denpasar) (DPS)